Greece is a prime destination for slow nomads, offering a perfect blend of beautiful islands, historic monuments and modern coworking spaces. Beyond its beauty and cultural richness, Greece is also more affordable than other European countries, making it an attractive option for remote workers. What’s more, obtaining a digital nomad visa in Greece is both easy and cost-effective, especially when compared to similar visas offered elsewhere.
As French citizens, my family and I had never explored Greece before. Our only connection with this ancient land was its rich history and mythology, which had long fascinated us. By the time we planned our trip, our eldest son had just finished devouring the entire Percy Jackson book series, so the excitement within our family was at its peak.
Greece has, of course, changed a lot over the centuries. From the Persian invasions (492-490 BC) to the German occupation, which ended in October 1944, its history is marked by turbulence and resilience.
Nikos Kazantzakis, the famous author of Zorba the Greek, once wrote: “Greece is placed in the middle; it is the geographical and spiritual crossroads of the world”. For centuries, Greece has served as a vital link between Europe and Asia, which perhaps explains the inquisitive and open nature of the Greeks, traits that make it easy to forge new friendships here.
While many digital nomads flock to the more popular Greek islands, we chose a different path, heading for the serene beaches of the Peloponnese. Linked to mainland Greece by a narrow isthmus, this rugged peninsula has often given the impression of being a world apart. Despite its lesser-known status, the Peloponnese offers many pleasures under the eternal Greek sun: peaceful fishing villages, wide sandy or pebble beaches, warm waters, mild winters, a more affordable lifestyle and, above all, none of the tourist crowds that flood the Greek islands.
As well as being home to some of Greece’s most important ancient sites, such as Olympia, Mycenae and Epidaurus, the Peloponnese is dotted with human-sized towns and breathtaking landscapes that deserve to be explored in their own right. In terms of cities, Nafplio is undoubtedly the most charming in the Peloponnese.
How to travel to Greece
To reach the Peloponnese, we took a Volotea flight to Athens. This low-cost European airline offers flights to small European cities often overlooked by other airlines. Their planes are comfortable and in excellent condition, the prices very attractive and the service friendly. Overall, we had a positive experience with Volotea. We even signed up for Megavolotea Plus, a paid subscription that offers savings on flights, including one free cabin bag (up to 10 kg), priority boarding, 35 euros Volotea credit on your birthday and unlimited flight changes at no extra cost, up to seven days before your flight.
However, there are a few drawbacks:
- Incomplete information: The unlimited flight change benefit only applies to the itinerary of the original booking, which is not clearly specified in the program details. This important detail is hidden on the website, which shows a lack of transparency on the part of the company. I lost five seats on a flight between Heraklion and Nantes, and only the airport taxes are refunded. In order to get reimbursed you need to make a request to customer service, which is difficult to contact.
- Credit card management: I found it annoying that I couldn’t immediately delete my credit card information when I wanted to cancel my membership. Instead, I could only “uncheck” the membership renewal option and now have to wait for the renewal date to pass before I can (hopefully) remove my card from the system. This approach sounds like a hard-sell tactic: if you forget to cancel, you’ll be charged.
Once in Athens, if you’re comfortable with driving in Greece, I highly recommend renting a car in the city. This is the best way to explore the Peloponnese at your own pace. If you’re on a tighter budget and have more time, you can take a bus or train to reach the Peloponnese, and then get around by bus, bike, or cab depending on your location. Keep in mind that renting a car outside of Athens can be challenging and expensive. If we were to return to the Peloponnese, we would definitely rent a car, as there are so many places we didn’t get a chance to explore.
If you’re not prepared in advance, Athens airport can seem unfriendly; information is hard to find and sometimes contradictory. We arrived on a day when there was a train strike, and nothing was organized to help travelers find their way. It was only after we had lugged our suitcases to the station that we were told there were no trains and that we had to take a bus, but no further details were given. Fortunately, with the help of our host, we managed to find the right buses to get us to our destination.
Remember to install WhatsApp on your phone, as it’s a preferred means of communication in Greece and Crete. Here’s a website with useful information on how to get to Athens from the airport and how to continue your journey in Greece.
Vrachati, Greece
We set down our luggage in Vrachati, a small seaside town twelve kilometers from Corinth. We enjoy immersing ourselves in local life, and Vrachati, located on the Gulf of Corinth, was once a popular seaside destination. For a while, it fell into obscurity, possibly due to the shutdown of a major factory and the train line. The train line should definitely be reinstated to reduce car pollution and provide travelers with an easy way to explore the coast at a slower pace. I heard there were plans to build a greenway for biking along the old train tracks—a fantastic idea—but when we left, no progress had been made.
The beach in Vrachati is pebbly with shallow waters, and the town itself is vibrant in the summer, featuring numerous cafés and boats docked at the marina. Vrachati has all the essentials: cafés, a bakery, a pastry shop, a butcher, fresh fruit and vegetable markets, and a large supermarket.
We stayed in the Lemon Tree Family House at Lemon Tree Houses, managed by Argiris and his family. He and his wife, Angie, welcomed us with incredible kindness and generosity. We shared some wonderful moments with them, especially with Argiris’s mother, Krina, a talented seamstress. We exchanged favorite dishes, and she even invited Lily to try on a traditional costume. Greece has given us one of the warmest welcomes we’ve experienced in our travels, second only to Vietnam. This human connection is crucial to us, making our nomadic life warmer and less isolating.
Lemon Tree Houses is first and foremost a family home. Built by Argiris’s father, it embodies a Greek family heritage and now welcomes travelers from around the world into one of its three tastefully decorated apartments, thanks to Angie. The place is charming, clean, and the beds are extremely comfortable.
Argiris and Angie go above and beyond to make you feel at home. I’ve rarely met hosts who are so attentive. It’s perfect for a family stay with children of all ages; you can cook, do your laundry, or simply relax under the lemon trees or on the rooftop, which offers a clear view of the bay. Life here is pleasant, and we were fortunate to be able to stay for several months.
If you plan to vacation at Lemon Tree Houses, be sure to book well in advance, as visitors return with pleasure and availability is rare. Lemon Tree Houses are available for booking on both Booking.com and Airbnb. If you stay there, be sure to say hi for us!
We truly loved spending our autumn and winter in Vrachati, where the sun and sea made the days feel warmer.
If you want to avoid the summer crowds but still enjoy swimming in clear blue waters and warm weather, October is an ideal month to experience life in the Peloponnese. It starts to cool down after mid-November. Additionally, you’ll have the chance to celebrate Oxi Day (also spelled Ohi or Ochi), a cherished national holiday observed on October 28th each year in Greece, Cyprus, and by Greek communities worldwide. While it’s marked by parades and festivities, Oxi Day is also a time for reflection on the virtues of courage, statesmanship, and national pride.
We really enjoyed the quiet, local life in Vrachati and quickly built relationships with the shopkeepers and our hosts. It was a wonderful experience that we’ll cherish. The only downside was the limited local transport and activities, particularly for children. However, life in Vrachati is evolving as more travelers choose to visit during off-peak times. As we were leaving, we noticed that a new yoga studio was preparing to open its doors.
Corinth and Ancient Corinth
From Vrachati, it’s a breeze to get to Corinth, where you can explore the new town with its restaurants, shops, and its famous canal. Corinth Canal stands as a testament to human ingenuity and engineering mastery. A marvel of modern engineering of an ancient idea. But for history buffs, a visit to ancient Corinth is a must!
Ancient Corinth was a powerhouse in Greek history, known for its prime location and booming trade. Nestled between the Ionian and Aegean Seas, Corinth controlled the narrow Isthmus, a vital trade route connecting the Mediterranean to the Black Sea. It was also home to the Isthmian Games, one of the major Panhellenic festivals.
The city’s strategic position made it a key player in wars throughout its history, as it bounced between periods of independence, Spartan control, and rule by other regional powers. Even after suffering a decline during the Roman conquest, Corinth remained culturally significant. Julius Caesar initiated a massive urban renewal project, later completed by Emperor Augustus, giving the city a fresh Roman makeover with temples, basilicas, and a bustling forum.
As the capital of the Roman province of Achaea, Corinth became a vibrant, cosmopolitan hub. It also played a major role in the Peloponnesian War (431-405 BCE), joining forces with Sparta and other allies to battle Athens.
Ancient Corinth is rich in mythology and religious lore, with countless stories tied to the city. One of the most famous legends is that of King Sisyphus’s grandson, a hero who tamed the winged horse Pegasus and defeated the Chimera, a terrifying monster with the body of a lion, the head of a goat, and the tail of a serpent. Another tale involves Poseidon, the God of the Sea, who is said to have blessed Corinth with his presence. The goddess Aphrodite was also highly revered here, and her temple was one of the most famous and frequented in ancient Greece.
That said, don’t expect your visit to be a deeply educational experience—it’s more about soaking in the atmosphere. You’re essentially paying to see ruins and a stunning landscape, which we share with you in Episode 2 of Slowmad in Greece. One thing I noticed about tourist attractions in Greece is that there aren’t many well-done informational boards.
Prepare your visit to Ancient Corinth
The Temple of Apollo is one of the few remaining Archaic Greek temples in the world. This Doric temple, dedicated to the god of light and music, is the crown jewel of the Archaeological Site of Ancient Corinth. Dating back to the 4th century BCE, it is considered one of the oldest temples in the complex. Take your time to walk around its perimeter and admire the imposing monolithic columns. The views from the front, with the mountain as a backdrop, are simply breathtaking.
The Peirene Fountain is a beautifully preserved ancient spring that was a crucial water source for the city. According to myth, this is where Pegasus, the winged horse, struck the ground with his hoof, causing water to gush forth. Another legend tells of the nymph Peirene, who, after losing her child to Artemis, was so consumed by grief that she transformed into a flowing spring. Regardless of the story, the fountain is a stunning site.
Lechaion Road is an ancient Roman road that once connected Corinth to its port, Lechaion, on the Corinthian Gulf. Walking along this well-preserved road, flanked by the remains of shops and public buildings, offers a vivid glimpse into the infrastructure and urban life of the time.
Bema of St. Paul is a large elevated platform in the heart of the Roman Forum, where officials once addressed the public. It holds great historical significance for Christians, as it’s believed to be the spot where St. Paul was put on trial for his religious teachings. During the Byzantine era, the Bema was converted into a Christian church.
Just outside the gates of Ancient Corinth, you’ll find a row of restaurants perfect for refueling with coffee or lunch before heading up the mountain. If you’re in the mood for something sweet, stop by Glace Art of Gelato in the center of the square for some delicious handmade ice cream.
How to reach the Acrocorinth
Next up, if you’re up for a little adventure, climb to the top of the mountain and visit Acrocorinth. The effort is definitely worth it, as you’ll escape the crowds — not many visitors make the trek, especially under the blazing sun. Plan to spend about 1-2 hours exploring the archaeological site of Ancient Corinth, and the best part? It’s free!
You’ll need a car to reach Acrocorinth, which is just a 10-minute drive from Ancient Corinth. If you don’t have a car, you can either hire a taxi or hike up. Keep in mind that the hike is steep, and there are numerous trails to explore once you’re at the top.
We absolutely loved it! Acrocorinth is considered the largest, highest, and most spectacular acropolis in Ancient Greece. Just make sure to use the bathroom before you go — there are no facilities at the top. Bring water and snacks to stay hydrated and energized during your visit, especially in the warm weather.
Acrocorinth is an ancient fortress perched atop a 575-meter-high table mountain. Like any good acropolis, its primary purpose was to protect the city below. Its elevated position gave the military a perfect vantage point to monitor the isthmus of the Gulf of Corinth and defend Ancient Corinth beneath it.
With a history spanning several millennia, Acrocorinth played a significant role during Greek, Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman periods. However, as time passed, the fortress gradually lost its military importance, and its fortifications began to deteriorate.
Today, as you explore the fortress, you can clearly see the influence of the various ruling eras: Byzantine houses and churches stand beside ruins of ancient temples, Venetian towers, and Ottoman mosques. Seventeenth-century travelers reported that homes near the gates housed both Muslims and Christians, with the population of the castle and lower city being under 1,500. Several mosques and small churches were scattered throughout the castle grounds, and remnants of these structures are still visible today.
The first thing that will take your breath away (literally) is the steep climb up the cobblestone path leading through the fortress’s impressive gates on its west side. This is the primary entrance to the citadel, fortified by three massive walls, defensive towers, and a moat. As you continue to explore, be prepared for rocky, unstable, and steep slopes. Make sure to wear sturdy shoes, have strong knees, and keep a close eye on little ones.
The expansive fortifications of Acrocorinth encircle the rocky outcrop, offering both stunning views and a journey through history. As you stroll along the well-preserved walls, you’ll encounter architectural styles from various historical periods. The fortified gates, towers, enclosures, and bastions provide insight into the defensive strategies used over the centuries. The impressive defensive wall system, stretching nearly 2 km, integrates seamlessly with the natural monolith, offering protection from the steep, rocky cliffs on the north, east, and south sides of the mountain.
Prepare your journey to Acrocorinth
One of the most prominent features of Acrocorinth, visible from every trail, is the Frankish Tower. Perched atop the smaller of the citadel’s two peaks, it stands guard over the surrounding countryside. Climb this two-story observatory tower for a breathtaking view of the area.
Situated near the highest point of Acrocorinth, the Temple of Aphrodite was a major sanctuary dedicated to the goddess of love and beauty. Although it now lies in ruins, the foundations remain, allowing you to appreciate its historical significance as a place of worship. This was one of the most renowned and important sanctuaries of Aphrodite.
Be sure to visit Agios Dimitrios Church, a Venetian gem and one of the few largely intact buildings within the castle grounds. Inside, you can admire the wall frescoes, and if you like, you can ring the bell outside. There’s also a path behind the church that leads to the fortress walls and another breathtaking viewpoint.
The Upper Peirene spring refers to the source or origin of the Peirene Spring, a notable water source in ancient Corinth, Greece. This spring is linked to the mythological nymph Peirene, who, according to legend, transformed into tears and became a spring. The fountain’s archaeological remains highlight the historical significance of water sources in ancient fortresses. If you have the time and energy, it’s worth a visit!
The Acrocorinth Mosque, also known as the Mosque of Sultan Ahmed III, is a small Ottoman-era mosque located within the archaeological site of Acrocorinth. Originally constructed as a temple to Aphrodite, it was later converted into a church before becoming a mosque. It is also suggested that St. Paul may have preached here during his visit to Corinth.
One of the highlights of Acrocorinth is the breathtaking panoramic views it offers. From the elevated vantage points, you can enjoy stunning vistas of the Corinthian Isthmus, the surrounding countryside, and the Aegean Sea. These views highlight the geographical significance and strategic location of Acrocorinth.
Loutraki, Greece
Another town we enjoyed spending an afternoon in is Loutraki. Known for its natural mineral and therapeutic springs since the 1930s, Loutraki is also home to one of the most luxurious casino resorts in Europe. While the town is very peaceful in October, it becomes crowded with holidaymakers from all over the world during the summer, making it much less enjoyable. I found it more relaxing than Corinth, where you can sip an iced coffee by the sea while the kids swim in the calm waters.
The view is serene and gives a true sense of tranquility. After a few hours contemplating the peaceful, hypnotic sea, we enjoyed a fabulous Italian gelato at Gelateria Dolci Passioni and drove home with a golden sunset in the background. It was such a lovely moment to remember.
On the following Google map, I’ve pinned all the places we liked and recommend in Vrachati. If you visit Vrachati, please share your experience and any recommendations you might have in the comments!
I hope you enjoyed this visual journey with Slowmad and that this article has inspired you to explore the Peloponnese.
What we’ll remember from this Greek interlude is the wonderful hospitality we received, the smiles, the generosity, the friendship, those incredibly golden sunsets that make you think Midas must have touched the sky with his fingertip, the Mediterranean calm and serenity, the ease of life, and that hypnotic blue. I don’t know if we’ll have the chance to stop by Greece again, but if we do, you’ll know where to find us: there, under the lemon trees, sipping freshly squeezed orange juice in the company of our Greek friends who we already miss.
Ευχαριστώ πολύ.
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